I've learned so much from "Accidents in NA Mnteering" that there was never any question we were going to throw this video up for other ice climbers to learn from. But yah, he's saying exactly what you think he's saying, "Clip the damn axe, clip anything, rest without overeaching, whatever, just dont fall!" Incredibly, all of the sound from the post fall analysis video got screwed up, so we're planning to head back up to re-interview Hake and Frode in the near future. This video is the first of two, the second one is for the ice climbing community. We made many errors that day and by shear grace walked out with small injuries. Your criticism is accurate and well taken. I'm the climber who tops out on Dracula left in the climb, the "Dan" they're all hollaring for.
These are fundamental skills and we can all stand to be reminded of the mindset, process and approach necessary to keep from getting hurt! Thanks for the excellent reminders and advice. It has encouraged too many people– like these guys– to believe that these activities are less dangerous and more accessible than they really are or should be. I don't think there's a solution to this, but I still think it's unfortunate. I'm thinking of surfing and ice climbing and extreme skiing and snowboarding and the like– sports where all we see are the extreme, over-the-top imagery of people riding massive waves or skiing off of cornices, etc. I don't think it's bad that people want to participate, but that the risks aren't adequately understood or that in a lot of cases the risks are completely glossed over in an effort to sell stuff to people. In the bigger picture it concerns me that participation in so many "extreme sports" has become oversimplified thanks to the marketing efforts of equipment companies and resorts. These little videos can sometimes be a useful resource because they're almost like little accident reports that we can all learn from (assuming they're factual, of course). Totally and completely agree with the analysis and the advice here. No “free” pitch is worth getting injured for. Or, climb it in five-foot sections putting in a screw and hanging I have FAR more respect for someone who doe that than gets pumped and falls off. So, stop before you get super pumped, put in a good screw, reset, maybe back off if you can’t climb the pitch without getting super pumped. I have seen a half-dozen screws over the years placed a little into the ice, and then a tool beside the screw, but no climber… Falling off while placing a screw is a common way to fall, but totally needless. Train doing this on a TR so you’re comfortable with it. If you’re getting super pumped on ice do what the other climbers suggest at 9:00: CLIP INTO YOUR TOOL and put a screw in. This guy could have been paralyzed for life, broken both ankles, or died. It is NOT ok to climb super-pumped on ice, the consequences of a fall are simply too high. In fact, that’s often the point in rock climbing. In rock climbing it’s often OK to climb deep into a pump, even to the point of falling. The climber should have stopped way, way before he fell. It is a given that a lot of ice will or can be falling down an ice climb, plan for it. Even the video guy is standing under falling ice at 3:20 Dracula is a one-pitch route for god’s sake, move out of the way! If the first rule of ice climbing is don’t fall off then surely the second is, “Don’t stand where you can get hit with falling ice.” This is rock-climbing thinking, where it’s abnormal to have falling ice. Do shorter pitches, whatever it takes, but having your belayer in any position where he could be hit by falling ice is flat-out stupid or ignorant. I can only remember two belays ever (ironically, one with Mark Twight) where I could not protect the belayer from falling ice, and in retrospect I put the belay in a shit place both times (sorry Mr. A better solution would be to have the belayer not in the line of fire at all. The belayer decides the solution to this problem is to have enough slack in the system to move to avoid the falling ice because, “If I get knocked out by a piece of ice what good am I as a belayer?” I’m not making that quote up. 2:00 Apparently the belay is a in place subject to falling ice.
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